Feature: 11 entry-level models from your favourite watch brands
Behind every iconic watchmaker lies an entry point—an introduction to the brand that’s more affordable than you might expect, without sacrificing quality. From the starting price of a Rolex to the most wallet-friendly Grand Seiko, we’ve rounded up 11 current starter models from your favourite brands, with all RRPs (recommended retail prices) correct at the time of writing.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36, reference 126000
The Oyster Perpetual is the staple, no-frills collection in Rolex’s line-up, albeit featuring some of the brand’s most colourful dials, including the discontinued “Celebration” dial from 2023. For £5.6k, you could get yourself a brand-new 36mm steel model with a lacquer dial in everything from classic black to lavender, or the sought-after “Tiffany blue”. The Explorer 36 is another great option at £6,600 RRP, especially if you prefer sports watches—the genre on which Rolex built its formidable reputation. However, there are even more affordable options on the pre-owned market including perennial bestseller, the Datejust, with older models selling from around £5,500.
Panerai Radiomir Officine PAM01382
Membership of the “Paneristi”—the name given to Panerai devotees— starts at £4,300. That’s how much the brand’s most affordable model, the Radiomir Officine PAM01382, will set you back. For this, you get a time-only, manual-wind watch that’s a dead ringer for the legendary 1940s vintage models worn by Italian naval divers. The cushion-shaped case, conical crown, sandwich dial and screwed-in wire-style lugs (far more robust than the originals, which were simply soldered onto the case) are all Panerai to the core, and at 100 metres the water resistance would have easily passed muster with those WW2-era divers. Alternatively, if you prefer the brand’s other iconic model, the Luminor, you can buy the 38mm reference PAM01552 for £6,200.
Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix 4600E/000A-B487
It may have produced the most technically accomplished mechanical wristwatch ever made, but Vacheron Constantin happily caters for those with less demands of their watch’s capabilities. While the brand’s Solaria Ultra Grand Complication boasts an astonishing 41 complications, its Fiftysix model in stainless steel keeps it simple with nothing but the standard time and a discreet date window. At £12,600, this handsome model with its petrol-blue sector dial is a great everyday watch that can be dressed up or down, while one look at the automatic movement through the caseback reminds you that you are in top-tier brand territory thanks to the hollowed-out Maltese cross winding rotor in 22k yellow-gold. The self-winding movement is a heavily modified Cartier, produced by Richemont's own Manufacture Horlogère ValFleurier.
Jaeger-LeCoultre, Reverso Classic Monoface Small-seconds, Reference Q3868520
You may have thought that something from the Master series, home to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s simpler models in stainless steel, would have been the brand’s most affordable watch. But no, it’s this Reverso Classic Monoface Small-seconds, priced at £6,750. This Art Deco icon, with its reversable case, has housed some incredible complications, while it’s also served as a canvas for its metier d’art craftspeople. But for many, the Reverso in its most pared-down form is perfect just as it is. This manual-wind version features a dial with a guilloche centre, which is echoed in the small-seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. For a more conventional, round-cased watch, try the Master Control collection, with time-and-date models in stainless steel starting at £7,600.
Grand Seiko Heritage SBGV221
There are countless reasons to love Grand Seiko and its approach to watchmaking, including its famous mirror-finish ‘zaratsu’ polishing technique. If you want to get into Grand Seiko from the bottom up, you’ll have to forego their pioneering Spring Drive movements and look at their much cheaper¬—albeit excellent—quartz collection. This stainless-steel Heritage model, reference SBGV221, boasts the versatile looks and finesse of a Rolex Oyster Perpetual, with a movement that’s accurate to +10 seconds a year. It’s 40mm case should suit most wrist sizes, and the 100 metres water resistance gives added reassurance. All this for £2,250—or you could pick up a quartz GMT model from £3,050. Of course, if you’re on a really tight budget, there are plenty of sub-£500 options from plain-old Seiko—both mechanical and quartz.
M.A.D Editions
MB&F’s sci-fi-inspired marvels such as the Legacy Machine will only ever find their way into the collections of the wealthiest watch aficionados. Thankfully the brand’s genius founder Max Busser is also one of the nicest people in the industry, so he introduced the M.A.D. Edition series of watches, a sub-brand that encapsulates the creativity of MB&F (Max Busser & Friends) watches but for a fraction of the price. In the spirit of fairness, however, they are only available to buy if your name is pulled out of a raffle (avoiding waiting lists and favouritism). Expect to pay around £3k for a Max Busser-designed watch that looks like no other on the market, even if it doesn’t bear the name MB&F on the dial.
Tudor 1926 36mm, reference M91550-0010
Introduced in 2018, the 1926 collection pays homage to the year Tudor was born, with understated models suitable for everyday wear. This model boasts a 39mm steel case and embossed opaline dial with a mix of blue Arabic numerals and hour markers. It’s powered by the automatic Calibre T601 and comes on a comfortable brown leather strap. Not bad for £1,870—a 36mm version is also available at £1,830. The Royal is another great option for a stylish yet affordable Tudor, with 41mm versions costing £2,480. If your heart is set on Tudor’s flagship dive model, however, you can find various Black Bays on the pre-owned market from as little as £2,500.
Omega DeVille Prestige, reference 424.13.40.20.01.002
Much of Omega’s identity revolves around the Speedmaster and Seamaster, but there are some great (and less expensive) models elsewhere in the brand’s catalogue—this DeVille being one of them. For just £3,000, this watch offers an elegant design including a black dial with alternating silver Roman numerals and cabochon hour markers and a date window at 6 o’clock. All this sits within a 39.5mm steel case—a size that fits most wrists. If you look on the pre-owned market, however, you can find mid-size Seamasters for around £1.6k and Aqua Terra 150m Gents models from about £2,600.
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Date, reference WAZ1110.FT8023
TAG Heuer’s Formula 1 line is one of a handful of collections celebrating the brand’s strong links to motor sport. If you’re keen to show your love of the racetrack, this Formula 1 is a good place to start, coming in at just £1,550. It boasts a sporty tachymeter bezel and black dial with Arabic numerals at 6 and 12 o’clock. It’s paired with a black perforated rubber strap and is powered by a quartz movement. If the sporty look isn’t for you, why not consider the dressier Carrera Date at £3,050—although considerably more than the F1, it does boast the automatic Calibre 5 and a sleek design that’s suitable for all occasions.
Breitling Professional Endurance Pro 44, reference X82310
The Endurance Pro is described as the “ultimate athleisure watch”, and is packed with useful features including a compass, date window and a chronograph. Made from Breitling’s own Breitlight, it’s 3.3 times lighter than titanium and just as resistant to scratches and corrosion. For just under £3,000 you get a lot for your money with this versatile timepiece. A more compact 38mm version, suitable for smaller wrists, is available at £2,850. However, if the Endurance is a bit too “rugged outdoors” for you and you’re happy to shop pre-owned, you can pick up versions of the discontinued Colt range for just under £2k. These sturdy aviation watches are powered by either quartz or mechanical movements and are far less expensive than the brand’s more famous Navitimer model. Older versions of Breitling’s dive watch, the Superocean, can also be picked up pre-owned for around £2,500.
IWC Portofino Pointer Date, reference IW359201
Although IWC is renowned for its iconic pilot’s watches, it does offer some more refined models, like this Portofino Pointer Date. This sophisticated 39mm steel timepiece boasts an understated dial with a jumping pointer-date indicator at 6 o’clock as well as golden hour markers and hands. It’s powered by the automatic calibre 35160 and is paired with a brown calfskin leather strap. You can pick this model up for £4,500 brand-new. However, if you’d rather stick to something from IWC’s classic Pilot’s Watch line, the Mark XX (reference IW328207) is a great place to start at £4,800—although these days you can pick up many of its stainless-steel pilot’s watches for under £3,000 pre-owned.
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Shop pre-owned Jaeger-LeCoultre watches
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Shop pre-owned TAG Heuer watches
